#Dz60 pcb plus

Set your soldering iron to a temperature between 350-370 вЊ (exact temperature can vary).If unsure, just mount all the switches before soldering and test-fit the keycaps you are unsure of the exact location. Important: Make sure you know the exact position for every switch, as the location can vary depending on the chosen layout. It should align nicely with the stabilizers. It seems one can reduce wobbling by adding band-aid or some other dampening and sticky tape between the PCB and stabilizers:ДЄfter you've placed all stabilizers, mount the plate over it. If you're unsure where to put a stabilizer, softly mount a keycap on a switch and gently put these on a stabilizer to perform a test fit.ДЄlso, double-check that the wire is correctly plugged in, so moving one keycap receiver should lift the other one too.

Make sure to mount the stabilizers correctly. So in my case with the split space bar layout: Mounting stabilizers on the PCB and the 'band-aid mod'ДЇirst, make sure you have enough stabilizers: you need one for any key в‰Ґ 2u. Make sure to lube switches and stabilizers. I won't go into details about what kind of lube to use, that is already covered extensively. it really makes an audible difference: your keyboard will be much more pleasant to type on, as it will rattle less and offer a more uniform typing feeling. Lubing the switches and stabilizers and filmingДЄlthough those things are completely optional. Repeat for each key and make sure all contacts are registering.Hit the two pads for each switch with tweezers (just use something conductive).This helps to rule out PCB errors if you encounter errors after soldering. It's recommended to test PCB functionality before soldering anything. Here's a list of the shops I bought my stuff from: Part Note that by living in Europe, some parts can be hard to come by (Krytox lube) and/or shipping fees are more expensive than the ordered components themselves. DZ60: Plate layout A is for a 2u left Shift, layout B has a 2.25u left Shift.DZ60: The stabilizers are PCB-mounted, not plate-mounted.These bits we're quite hard to find, as I either found no or inconsistent information on the Internet. I know Pexon and Clark Kable that assemble cables to your needs. If you're building your own keyboard, chances are, that you might want a pretty cable. Obviously you can simply choose a standard USB cable. It seems the DZ60 fits any standard 60% case. Using helps you with decisions regarding the layout, required key caps/switches etc. You can reuse PCB-mount switches on a plate by cutting the two guide pins at the bottom. Plate-mounted ones have a firmer typing feel, while PCB-mounted switches feel bouncier and have more flex. Switches can be mounted by two methods: either plate-mount or PCB-mount. Also important: the plate in combination with the PCB dictate what layout options you have (e.g. I don't know anything about the differences or if you can even feel any. Brass ones are the most expensive amongst those. Plates come in at least 4 different materials: Aluminium, steel, brass or carbon fiber. Durock or Cherry seem to have stable build quality where other clone brands vary in quality. If you plan to use a split space bar, you need to order additional 2u stabilizers (see section 'Bill of materials').ДЄccording to broad agreement on the interwebs, original stabilizers from e.g. If you get a universal plate, usually you need PCB-mounted stabilizers. One can choose between PCB- or plate-mounted stabilizers of various brands. USB Type-C: I'm a bit paranoid of damaging the PCB connector, so USB Type-C lowers that risk in my opinion.I'll probably use it to indicate layers and special keys like Caps Lock etc. Versatility: many layouts to choose from (I love the split space option).More information on the individual components below.

#Dz60 pcb plus

USB cable: a plus when building your own keyboard is, that the USB cable is detachableДЄ good place covering the details is the Deskthority wiki.

Keycaps: well, those are the plastic thingies you're typing on.

Switches: They are soldered to the PCB and define how resistant the switch is on a keypress.

Plate (optional): sits on top of the PCB and supports the switches while changing the sound and feel.

Stabilizers: they balance key presses along wider key caps like Backspace, Caps Lock etc.

PCB (printed circuit board): the brain of your keyboard, could have RGB lighting.

These components are required, amongst other optional things like switch films, dampening case foam etc.: is to end up with a working 60% mechanical keyboard.

Mounting stabilizers on the PCB and the 'band-aid mod'.

Lubing the switches and stabilizers and filming.